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Diamond education · Guide 03 of 8

Diamond shapes

Shape is taste. Each one also changes what to look for.

From the CTJ Jewellery team, led by founder Greg Ward

Oval cut diamond, top view

Shape is the outline of a diamond seen from above. Cut is how well it is faceted. Every shape is available in natural and lab-grown, and each one changes how the diamond sparkles, how large it looks for its weight and which grades matter most.

The ten shapes

  • Round cut diamond, top view

    Round

    The round brilliant cut (RBC), faceted for maximum light return. The most requested shape.

    Hides colour and inclusions better than any other shape.

  • Oval cut diamond, top view

    Oval

    Elongated brilliance that looks larger than its weight.

    Check for a bow-tie shadow across the centre.

  • Emerald cut diamond, top view

    Emerald

    Long, open step-cut facets with a quiet, architectural look.

    Shows clarity, so choose carefully.

  • Cushion cut diamond, top view

    Cushion

    A softened square with large, glowing facets.

    Cuts vary widely. See it before you choose.

  • Pear cut diamond, top view

    Pear

    Round at one end, tapering to a point.

    Symmetry matters, and the point needs a protective claw.

  • Princess cut diamond, top view

    Princess

    A square brilliant with crisp, sharp corners.

    Set with protected corners to prevent chipping.

  • Radiant cut diamond, top view

    Radiant

    Trimmed corners with brilliant faceting throughout.

    Very good at hiding inclusions.

  • Marquise cut diamond, top view

    Marquise

    Long and pointed at both ends, giving the most finger coverage.

    Prone to a bow-tie shadow, so view it in person.

  • Asscher cut diamond, top view

    Asscher

    A square step cut with deep, cropped corners.

    Like the emerald, it shows clarity.

  • Heart cut diamond, top view

    Heart

    One of the hardest shapes to cut well.

    Best from about 0.75ct, where the outline reads clearly.

Questions

Which diamond shape looks biggest?

Elongated shapes such as oval, marquise and pear spread wider than a round of the same weight, so they look larger on the hand.

Which shape sparkles most?

The round brilliant cut. Its facets are designed for maximum light return.

Does shape change the price?

Yes. Round costs more per carat than fancy shapes, because cutting a round brilliant loses more of the rough crystal.

See the diamonds

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